P1381 Honda Code - Cylinder Position Sensor Intermittent Interruption

Had the same code. Balance shaft belt broke and damaged the crank sensor. Changed the balance shaft belt and timing belt along with the crank sensor. Problem solved

Thanks for the information!!

Can someone please Help me? I have P1381 code for a 96 civic. The car idols low and stalls out when stopped completely.

You probably have a bad Cylinder Position Sensor. The Cylinder Position Sensor is part of the distributor. Due to the age of your Civic, you more than likely have to replace the distributor to fix the problem.

Had this code in my daughter's 2000 Accord EX 2.3 vtech the other night. With the code current the car would cut out at 3000 rpm. Basically like the ecm alowed a "limp mode" only. After some online research I put the battery on an overnight charge and cleared the code and went for a short local drive with the 4 pin disconnected from alternator. No code! Reconnected 4 pin and pulling out of the driveway code pops up again. Pulled alternator and had it tested at local parts store. Diode failure. Installed new alternator, cleared code and problem is resolved.

Thank you for sharing!!

I have the P1381 code and am experiencing no power and rough shifting. Replaced distributor with new one and code popped back up with same issues, no power and poor shifting. Could this be due to diode failure in alt?

Yes replace you alternator and it will restore power and clear the code

Same problem, p1381 code, Honda Accord 2001. Put load on alternator by turning headlights on and running A/C...motor hesitated and sputtered at 3,000 RPM. Disconnected 4 prongs connector from alternator and tried same test. Car fine with no hesitation and 3,000 RPM sputter. alternator bad diode ( unable to provide proper voltage under load)...new alt. and problem fixed

Thanks for the information!!

I have a 96 honda accord ex. I have the code p1381 cam sensor and P1382. I changed the distributor and P1382 was removed, but 1381 remains constant; the only problem I have experienced is rough shifting. Nothing else seems to be an issue. Can anyone help?

I have a 1998 Honda Accord 2.3L VTi-L (Philippines), I have this issue for quite sometimes now (more than a year as I can remember).

Here's whats happening:

1. when I drive my car (day time) on aircon blower @ #1 it runs perfectly fine, until such time, it will hesitate, jerk, or whatever you call it.

2. when I switch the aircon blower to #2 it will run fine but jerks, a bit faster than situation #1

3. when I use my headlight and aircon (#1 at AC blower speed) at the same time, it jerks.

NOTE: After jerking for sometime, the CEL came on with code 9 (CYP Sensor), took it to a shop, got the dizzy replaced, still does the same thing. whats bad is, if you let it on CEL for quite sometimes, it dies, and you need to let it cold until it starts again (when it dies, it shows TDC error code), then reset the battery to remove the codes.

I've noticed that when it died, and you rest for like 5 mins, then turn the engine on, then AC, it jerks, then it will die, if you run it without the AC, it will run for about 10-15 mins, with CEL on the dash.

Things I did already since issue came on:

Got dizzy replaced replaced (4x)
Got ECU physically checked (all perfect)
Got the Dizzy to ECU connectivity (all fine)
Got my engine wiring checked and fixed (added relays and all)
Got my fuel pump checked (all perfect)
Got my Timing and Balancer belt changed
Got my CPS replaced
Got my Throttle body cleaned
Replaced IACV
Got grounding kits installed (and replaced the old ones)

BTW, when I press my powerlock buttons or if i use any of its electricals inside the car (@night), the lights on the dash flickers (but doesnt die). it just flickers for example, I press the power lock button, it flickers, (as if you are starting your car with the headlight turned on).

I was thinking that my alternator could be going bad, but I dont have signs, battery indicator doesnt turn on, I have my battery for a year now and only charged once (when I did not notice that my brake light switch was busted, so my tail lights was on for a week maybe ***IDK actually****), sometimes my audio when connected to my Bluetooth on my phone would freeze,

Please help me :)

This fixed and cleared my problem as well. Same code. Changed alternator. Code gone and my 2001 Honda Accord no longer hesitates while accelerating at 3k rpm. There was no check engine light, no problem lights at all. My code reader found it. Autozone and Oreilly's code reader did not find code. Autozone alternator test did not reveal bad diodes. Oreillys did. Might have been a intermittent diode issue. (heat, vs bad solder? not sure) Your comment section saved me from buying the sensor as the code is related to.

1999 Honda Accord Coupe 2.3L throws code P1381 have replaced the distributor 4 times, also replaced timing belt, water pump, then P1381 came up again saying crankshaft positioning sensor I have replaced it also now no later than a week after getting last distributor put in, it now is saying I need to replace the crankshaft positioning sensor. I first replaced distributor in April/2019, then February/2020 replaced 3 more times. Replaced crankshaft positioning sensor in December/2019 & as of Friday, February 27, check engine light came back on after 3 times of stuttering after take off and threw up P1381 again. What should I do because it's getting costly?

Besides the distributor the only other component that may set the P1381 code is the Alternator. Poor alternator charge could set the code. Before replacing any more parts check that the alternator is charging and the battery is fully charge.
Also, during the distributor installation make sure the coil shield was properly installed. Missing, damage or not properly installed coil shield could also set the code.

A bad ELD can cause this along with the 3k rpm limp mode. 2002 accord didn't post a traditional Electrical Load CEL but the live data showed ELD sensor readings bouncing between 8v and 62v.