P0011 Volkswagen Code - 'A' Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Or System Performance Bank 1

I believe this to be the ultimate summation concerning the W8 cam
adjuster/P0021/P0011 code and will show there is more to this than
just
shock treatment of the solenoids but the short answer is; remove and
clean the valve body under the solenoid! It is easy to do!! Really!!!

The following is a focus on cleaning the adjustor Solenoid/Valve
assembly which I am convinced is the heart of the problem and what
should be dealt with every time. If you want to read a more
comprehensive overview of the W8 cam adjustor issue then look for my
long posting under user name Billj3cub at:

http://forums.fourtitude.co...

Note: Regarding the solenoid shock treatment, you don't need to
reverse polarity. The plunger will extend out of the solenoid regardless
of
the polarity.

Another note: In the following description I call the parts a Valve and Valve Body because they are miniature
versions of a automatic transmission valve and valve body.

When doing the solenoid shock treatment, if the solenoid clicks then it
is probably good. If it does not click then pretty much
guaranteed the valve is stuck depressed down in the valve body, the
spring can't push the valve back up, the plunger is hanging fully
extended out of the solenoid (it only moves 0.070"), and you will
not hear a click because the solenoid is already fully extended. The
solenoid is quite powerful, especially when applying 12 volts to it
(computer only applies 5 volts),
but the return spring is weak by comparison so if the valve is going
to get stuck, it will get stuck in the downward position. That is
what I have always found. If all 4 solenoids click but you are still
getting cam adjustor codes then I would disassemble and inspect all
4 solenoids using the procedure below. The valve under the solenoid
is the weak link that is most susceptible to sticking, the actual
cam adjuster/sprockets are very tough and very, very tolerant of
wear,
debris, gunk, etc. Indeed, the chambers in the adjustable sprocket
assembly will chew up and spit out anything that goes in there. I will
gladly pay to have anyone with a supposedly worn out adjustable sprocket
assembly send it to me so I can inspect it.

What has
likely jammed the valve in the body are pieces of the super-fine
mesh screen that was built into the solenoid holder and always comes
apart over time. I have seen a new set of solenoids and their holder
(big$$$) and the screen is a slightly thicker more robust material than
original but I would never reinstall that unit, new or old, without
tearing the whole screen out regardless.

The following procedure should take about two hours from start of
tear down to finish of reassembly:

Take the intake manifold off.

Remove the valve cover.

IMPORTANT: Disconnect the battery so you cannot mistakenly turn the
engine over then stuff rags into the cam drive openings around the
chains and gears quite thoroughly so nothing can fall down there.
Get even the smallest item stuck down low in the chain/gears where
you can't reach it and it is game over.

Remove the two Torx screws that hold the solenoid on. Use a strong
pencil magnet to catch the screws even though you previously stuffed
rags in the cam drive opening. Every caution you take will be worth
it.

Using two flat bladed screwdrivers carefully pry the solenoid as
straight up out of its holder as you can. If it does not come out
perfectly straight don't worry. When prying out, one of two things
will happen:

1) If the solenoid breaks off the valve body, leaving the valve body
behind in the holder, then carefully clean out the 3 cracked or
chipped edges of the valve body where they were crimped/staked
around the solenoid. It will be obvious what I am talking about when
you are looking at these parts.

You will see the valve in the valve body with an offset oil passage
hole near the center. That oil hole delivers oil to the solenoid for
cooling and lubrication purposes.

Stick a straight pick tool with a tapered shaft in that hole and gently
put sideways pressure on the tool while drawing the valve straight out. If it stuck, and it will be,
(remember why we are in there?) then try alternately (gently!)
pushing, pulling and twirling until it eventually starts moving and
you can draw it out. Take your time and don't force it. It will come
out faster than you initially think. You don't want to unnecessarily
score or chip the valve or the bore it rides in. Pull the spring out
of the bottom of the bore with a pick tool and carefully set it
aside. Every one I have taken apart that was stuck had either tiny
bits of screen or large chunks of screen or something in between.
The valve is really simple, just wipe it clean.

Cleaning the valve body is more difficult. I suggest you remove all
those rags you stuffed in the cam drive area, unplug the ignition
coils from the other side of the motor if you have not already, hook up
the battery,
then have an assistant crank over the motor and let oil pressure
flush out the debris until you are satisfied the body is clear. If
you see the motor is all sludged up after removing the valve covers then
this flushing procedure will verify that oil is flowing to the cam
adjustors. You will see oil pulsing backwards out of the cam adjustor
sprocket assembly supply passages toward the back of the motor then you
will see oil flowing out of the supply passage toward the front of the
motor. Clear out all of the oil in the valve body bore with paper
towels, rags or compressed air (messy but it works) to verify any and
all debris are gone. All this work takes less time to do than to say.

A word of advise here: I am not satisfied with purging the oil while
leaving the valve body in its holder. There could still be debris
trapped around the valve body and its bore that may not flush out
immediately. If you look at where the base of the valve body would be
you will see a cut out in the holder. Stick a large screwdriver in there
and twist really hard or use a bearing puller tool that has a short
stubby hook to hook the valve body and tap upwards. The 4 O-rings will
be quite stuck in the bore but it WILL come out. Any scratches or
chipping you cause on the bottom of the valve body are inconsequential.
Now clean the removed parts and crank the motor over to flush the oil
out of the valve body bore.

2) If the solenoid and valve body pull out of the holder as an
assembly then you will have to pry the valve body off the solenoid
then follow the procedure outlined above after 1) above. If the
valve body does come out of the bore then after all the cleaning you can
assemble the valve, valve body and solenoid together then apply 12
volts to the assembly and watch the valve shuttle back and forth in its
body through the slots in the side of the body.

Disconnect the battery and again pack rags back around the cam drive
to protect against dropsies then carefully place the spring back in
the bore making sure the spring is not crooked in the bottom of the
valve body! Push down on the valve to verify that it plunges down and
returns smoothly then place the solenoid straight back down into
position then
carefully fasten the solenoid in place with the two Torx screws. The
original crimping of the solenoid to the valve body is not needed here,
that was only for original production assembly. Now
would be a good time to drive the solenoid with battery voltage a
few dozen times to hear that satisfying "click" and gain confidence
that the valve is indeed free and not wanting to hang up.

Pull the rags out, install the valve cover, reassemble the rest of
the intake, hoses and solenoid connectors. Drive the car around and
be glad you did not unnecessarily have a shop remove the motor,
replace the cam adjusters and solenoid assembly and blow $8,000 when
all it takes is a few hours work to clean the solenoids. Think of it
as regular maintenance (until all the screen material is gone) like
cleaning the throttle body or replacing the spark plugs. The best
part is you know exactly what you are doing and why you are doing it
and can easily do it again if needed. No Fear, No Worry, No Sweat.
The W8 lives again.

Editorial:

I am torn between the two: Had this clear understanding and
procedure (and $300 verses $8,000 to have a shop do it) been known 5
years ago the W8 market would still be strong today and I would not
have been able to get mine soooo cheep. But I do shed a tear for the
untold millions of dollars unnecessarily thrown away and all the
broken hearted owners that had to walk away from their dream car all
from one unnecessary screen and one tiny valve that was easily
cleaned.

I have a 2003 VW Passat with a code saying p0011 intake (A) camshaft position timing over-advanced (bank 1). Seams to run and start fine where would I start?

For got to say its a 1.8t

Start by changing the engine oil and filter.

2001 passat with two codes P0011 & P0170. My is leaving white smoke when i drive it also poor idle,lack on power,whinning sound under the hood,randling sound when the first starts up till you press on the gas a little then goes away. I would like to were i begin to start at to fix this codes and my problems.

What he said. My college kid went well over his oil change time (trying to teach him to be responsible for the scheduled maintenance) and got the P0011. I changed the oil yesterday and not only was it dirty but he was close to 2 quarts low. BTW, if you change your own oil (guessing most people checking these boards do) I REALLY hope you use FULL SYNTHETIC. The difference in cost at auto parts stores and/or big box stores is so small compared to synthetic blend and even conventional, that it just does not make sense to scrimp in this area.

WHERE IS THE Camshaft Position Timing

WHERE IS THE Camshaft Position Timing VW BEETLE 2007

Here is a video to help you locate the part:

https://youtu.be/A6kPPgjAofI

where can i locate the vvt solenoid bank 1

its for a vw passat 2010 2.0

What model and year is your VW?

My son's car is having the same issue, but his is also running rough at idle. I changed the oil and cleared the code, but it will return. Not always right away, but it is becoming more consistent. Any other ideas?

i have a 2006 vw passat 2.0 t check eng light poped on came up with code p0011 did some troble shooting ended up being the plug on veritible timing sensor plug had oil in it poor electrical circuit hope this helps some one along the way easy fix bost hard rides smoth

Thank you for sharing!! I'm sure it help someone.

2002 passat 1.8T.......error code p0011 has been lingering on for 3 years now ......changed the camshaft variable timing siwtch ........change oil at 3k miles ....but no help.....the light used to go away for a while but now its there wont go away and the car is rough at idle